- Added 2 additional Alternate 33mm Track Spacing Corner diagrams. The 14-3/8" square Alternate corner isn't the only alternate corner possible!

- Index-- Re-arranged semaphore flags to make the index more 'logical.' If it isn't, please let me know! You can still start at the top and scroll all the way to the bottom!

- 'Enlargements' use same alternate window & shift focus to that window-- at least if the window isn't open yet.

- Fixed some irregularities here and there.

- Changed phrasing for Standard and Alternate track spacing to, "the Basic 25mm track spacing," and "the Alternate 33mm track spacing" to try and make things more self-explanatory.

- Links-- Fixed, re-arranged, and added links to various things.

- Added links to Syllabi for TTRAK Classes; Alternate TTrak module building standards; DCC Wikipedia (among others).

- Star Junction Modules - Added section showing some track plans using Lee Monaco-FitzGerald's hub modules.

- Added dimensions and diagrams for TTrak alternate 33mm track spacing Single and Corner modules.

- Moved photo galleries to Yahoo web site - theoretically, they'll be easier to access. Added many new galleries, including NMRA 2005 and 2006 TTrak layouts; assorted Cincinnati-area train shows.

- Fixed Skyblockers section. Added info on low-profile skyboard legs; tall skyboards with built-in signs; described painting with Kilz/Binz as primer coat; included sky/mountain cutting plans.

- Junction Module - added track lengths for straight leg using standard pieces.

- Included Contact Cement information

- Added 2-arm "Pinwheel" track plan

- Concept modules - non-conforming bridge (similar to DL&W's Hainesburg Viaduct); crossing module and bi-level layouts.

- Discussion of Track Power Connections, "Blue-to-the-Outside," and center-of-table power buses.

- "Colorized" the yard diagrams to show red/yellow tracks.

- Internal upgrade to the Image-On-Demand logic. The site no longer requires parallel All-At-Once and On-Demand pages; it's all combined in one. And a -whole- lot easier to maintain!

- Added credit lines for photos that weren't taken by me: Steve Jackson's junction module; Aaron Poscovsky's 'Farmhouse' module; Steve O'Toole's photos of skyboards in action. Added credit line to diagram of Brian Heil's 'double-cross' module.

- Added 3- and 5-legged Junction Modules. These will reduce the need for plywood to support junction module corners.

- As a favor for those who have mentioned that my web page takes a long time to load over a dial-up link, I have added an "On-Demand Graphics" version and a new "make-a-choice" front page. If you select the "On-Demand Graphics" version, a place holder appears in place of most graphics. Clicking on the place holder will load the image. If the graphic is a link (ie the image has a colored border; the arrow turns into a pointing hand), click -down- on the image, but move the mouse off of the graphic before releasing the mouse. Otherwise, it counts as a -click- and you will load the large version of the graphic. For the geeks amongst us, this works because I discovered the onMouseDown function.

- Added "All the World's a Staging Yard."

- Rewrote "What Is TTrak?" section.

- Added 2nd group of Links for mostly TTrak-related links. Original "Steamy Places" is not changed, but is mostly full-scale museums &c.

- Links and Photos page now accessable at http://TTrak2.Cincy.Home.Insightbb.com

- Changed eMail logo to Lackawanna RPO.

- Partial rewrite of "Module on a Plank" section- some redundancies removed, added diagram of ideal foot/bolt placement.

- Rewrote SkyBlocker section: promoted slotted 2x4, demoted original with fixed feet.

- Added "figure 8" double crossover module.

- Removed 'old' junction layout possibilities and replaced with a 'generic' layout. This includes the "figure 8" module.

- Removed duplicated section(s).

- Changed Inside/Outside Corners diagrams to show "answers" instead of "equations." Clicking on the diagrams still shows the "equations" detail.

- Added section on wiring Kato Turnouts

- Added this "What's New?" section

- Added section on View Blockers

- Added photo of Steve Jackson's Junction Module

- Added diagram of 12" deep Offset Module

- Rearranged sections and performed minor editing

- Added section on Transition Modules

- Added section on Slicing and Dicing UniTrack

- Added section on Improving Reliability

- Added diagram of Z-layout for Alternate standard modules

- Added section on estimating train speed

- Updated and added to Lynx and Photos section

T-Trak is a system of small modules that make up a portable model train layout. A 'standard' module is only 8-1/4 x 12"- about the size of a piece of paper! Modules are easy to build, store, and transport. Layouts are set up and run on standard banquet tables (30" x 96").

Lee Monaco-FitzGerald and her husband, Jim FitzGerald (of N-Trak fame) were shown a bare-board tram module concept at a meeting in Japan in August of 2000. It was a way for many more people to join together in modeling. Lee built 3 modules to introduce at the St. Louis, MO July convention and then took them to Japan for the JAM convention. She named the size T-TRAK and gave it the identifying slogan, "Trams, Trolleys, Trains, Two Tracks and Table Top." In the September-October 2001 issue of the NTrak Newsletter they introduced America to T-Trak.

Some have asked "Why T-Trak? Why not a full-sized layout or a larger (N-Trak) module?" I've heard my T-Trak modules described as a "modular module!"

I've been trying to put my fascination with T-Trak into words. I've combined some thoughts from myself (Paul E Musselman), plus Allan Andres, Robert Myers, and Aaron Poscovsky, three among others who have been captivated by this system.

SPACE, THE FINAL FRONTIER

Traditional model train layouts are permanent fixtures. Because they are 'second class' features of a home, they're relegated to the attic, the basement, or the garage. But the attic is either too hot or too cold; the basement is damp and leaky; and the garage is dusty and drafty.

Much to the dismay of the model railroader, the living room is off-limits (except for a loop of track around the Christmas Tree). The bedrooms are all occupied. There is no real place for a permanent layout.

There are a lot of people living in small apartments with no place to set up a standard large layout. Many would-be modelers have pushed any thoughts of model trains out the door.

What do T-Trak modules offer to someone entering model railroading?

T-Trak modules are much smaller than other modular systems. A T-Trak layout can be described as a 'modular module.'

Four corners and 2 straights in T-Trak would be about 2-1/2 x 3-1/2 feet. You can set up your layout on the kitchen table, enjoy running trains, and still have room for breakfast!

The layout comes apart after use. This is useful for people without a lot of storage space. You can store modules on a bookshelf. You can set up a layout across the top of a series of bookshelves! T-Trak modules are "Living Room Legal."

Robert Myers is building a home T-Trak layout that sits on top of a bookcase in the reading area of his bedroom. It's a 4' x 11' "L" with balloons at either end that only pop out to 22" from the wall.

Tabletop modules do not replace larger modules or permanent large layouts. But with T-Trak modules the hobby can grow, since more people can enjoy the hobby.

THE RIGHT TRACK

It doesn't require track skills. T-Trak uses Kato Unitrack sectional track. Unitrack is very reliable and removes the disappointment (and time and money required) of poor trackwork.

TIME ON MY SIDE

You can build a T-Trak module in a few evenings.

Aaron Poscovsky built a T-Trak module with grass, a farmhouse, barn and other items in an afternoon. In a larger scale, or with larger modules, a person would need a few months of building and landscaping to show off his/her layout.

One of Aaron Poscovsky’s Ttrak Modules (Photo by Aaron Poscovsky)

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

T-Trak modules can be built from scratch, from a kit, or on pre-fabricated modules.

A person that has wanted to enter the hobby, but didn't want all the hand tools and lumber cutting, can now enter the hobby.

No power tools are required to build a T-Trak module. You -can- cut 1/4" plywood (well, 3/16") with a utility knife! You can build your module on the kitchen table, or in front of the TV.

These modules are great as a parent can help supervise a child, without power tools that might be beyond a child's capabilities. A child can handle this size module and learn the enjoyment of model railroading.

START ME UP

Building a layout of T-Trak modules is a great way to introduce people to our hobby. A parent can help supervise a child. A child can handle this size module and learn the enjoyment of model railroading.

We "old timers" need to help the new and young with modeling.

It’s perfect for Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts as a team building exercise and allows group participation in a short-term project.

The one thing that people forget all the time is that building portable tabletop modules is a great way for NEW modelers to enter the hobby.

You don't have to stick to strict prototype modeling. Free lancing anything you want is expected and encourages individual creativity.

T-Trak allows concentrated modeling, low investment, easy (laptop) portability of modules, and tabletop setup.

KEEP ME GOING

For old-timers, T-Trak can be used as experimental territory-- trying scenery and track techniques without a major investment in time and materials. It allows you to build confidence in your scenic skills one step at a time.

T-Trak modules won't replace larger NTrak modules or permanent large layouts. But with T-Trak modules, more people can enjoy the hobby.

SHOWS &c

For promotional purposes you can stuff a T-Trak layout in the back of a car or van, and take it to a school, retirement home, children's hospital, or other location for people to view and enjoy.

Given a flat floor and a couple of standard banquet tables (30" x 96"), it could be set up in less than 10 minutes.

HISTORY

Lee Monaco-FitzGerald and her husband, Jim FitzGerald (of N-Trak fame) were shown a bare-board tram module concept at a meeting in Japan in August of 2000. It was a way for many more people to join together in modeling. Lee, already an accomplished N-Trak modeler, built 3 modules to introduce at the St. Louis, MO July convention. She later took them to Japan for the JAM convention. She named the size T-TRAK and gave it the identifying slogan, "Trams, Trolleys, Trains, Two Tracks and Table Top." In the September-October 2001 issue of the NTrak Newsletter they introduced America to T-Trak.

Lee has built several T-Trak layouts. They're quite impressive in a concentrated sort of way and a lot of fun.

For those just starting out with T-Trak modules, there are 2 main construction techniques.

The first builds a miniature 'train platform' that can rest on your table top, and still align with modules during a show.

For detailed dimensions and a materials list, please refer to the Official T-Trak web site at . Don't forget to come back here for more ideas!

I've diagrammed a single straight module using the Alternate 33mm Track Spacing, and an Alternate Corner, also using 33mm Track Spacing.

I've built some modules that use a different style of construction, which allows more 'depth' to the scenery.

I was toying with plans for modules, and was thinking about various scenery possibilities. My first thought was to add a body of water. I sketched out a corner module. My notes say "Cut out front – lake, etc. Cut out back – track on causeway."

My sketch at the time shows that I was thinking about taking a standard module and carving away parts to make room for the terrain features I wanted.

Then I realized that I could build it as a piece of plywood with track elevated on a piece of foam:

The "Blob-O-Foam" would also become the chassis for the scenery.

See for module dimensions &c, then come back here for an alternate construction technique. Go on... I'll wait!

Although constructing a T-Trak module using the 'official' method is simple, it still requires quite a bit of handwork. The official method uses 3/16" plywood and stock molding. Although you can cut 3/16" plywood with a sharp utility knife, it takes time and about three hands to assemble the standard module.

I propose a much simpler method of constructing a module. The 'chassis' is a piece of 3/4" plywood. You mount threaded inserts at each corner for the adjusting bolts, and you're done with the construction phase. Stack on some foam insulation panels and carve your scenery. That's it! No carpentry to speak of; if you have a local home center, they'll cut the plywood to size for you for a nominal fee.

Standard modules are just a tad less than 310mm wide x 8-1/4" deep. The width lets the rail joiners of the Unitrack hang over the edge of the module, and lock with the next module. I tend to make my modules just a hair shorter than most; there are (small) gaps between the ends. This means my dimensions can be a bit more casual. It makes the modules easier to separate, but does require a little nudging during setup to make sure the straightaways are straight.

Start with the piece of 3/4" plywood. Cut plywood to size (or have your home center do it). The long dimension (306 mm) will let the ends of the tracks just peek over the ends of the module. This will let them lock onto the next module, yet a slight turn sideways will unhook them.

Drill holes and insert the 4 inserts in the plywood. The distance from the edges of the plywood must be far enough so that the interior plies aren't forced out along the edges when the inserts are pounded into submission... er, into place. I think mine are about 1" from the front and back. Ideally, they should be 1/4 of the way across the module from each end (see diagram below). This lets each pair of legs support 1/2 of the module. Drilling the right sized pilot hole helps prevent any problems, too.

Screw in the adjusting bolts from the bottom. I use 1" or 1-1/2" bolts. Longer bolts aren't necessary.

This concludes the construction phase. On to scenery.

Peel the protective film from both sides of the foam insulation board. Stack 4 layers on the plywood to make the official 2-3/4" module height. You will have 2" of foam + 3/4" plywood (= 2-3/4"). The adjustable bolts will raise the track bed to the full 4 inches (+/- 1/4"). You can stack foam higher to make mountains and molehills.

Depending on your planned terrain, slice away parts of each layer, or add extra bits. You can pin the layers together temporarily with toothpicks while you work. Glue the foam to the plywood. Glue on the remaining layers of foam as needed.

Cut and rasp the foam until it looks not unlike natural terrain. Apply your favorite scenery techniques. At some point in the process, glue down the track. This can be either before or after the scenery is complete; your preference.

Done. The advantage of this technique is that there's only 1 piece of wood that needs to be cut, and you can probably get someone -else- to do it! Insert the threaded inserts, then it's scenery all the way! No waiting for the glue on a built-up module to dry! Do it on the kitchen table.

I’ve also built some of these as double-wide modules. The depth of these modules is 'standard,' but the width is a multiple of 310mm, less enough to let the rail joiners hang off of the ends. It’s not a multiple of the official module size, since the official module is already shortened by the amount of the overhang, and a multiple would result in double / triple / quadruple overhang. Multiply the (number of module multiples) x 310mm, then subtract about 4mm. This allows about 2mm of overhang on each end.

If you've built to 'official' dimensions, the plywood + foam is 2-3/4" tall. This gives you 2" below track level for additional scenery (gullies, valleys, rivers, etc.).

Track height above the table top is 4" (+/- 1/4") during operating sessions. If you're the adventurous type, you can add an additional 1/2" of foam below track level, and still meet the 4" maximum height.

The scenery is constructed of layers of 1/2" foam insulation board. Mine was blue. It has a plastic ‘skin’ on both sides. Remove this skin so the glue will hold the foam together.

I started by stacking layers up to track level. They weren't glued together at this point. I drew the track outline on the top layer, then started slicing away the parts I didn't need. I used toothpicks to hold the layers in alignment as I sliced. I was making a river valley, so the layers got wider the further down the stack I went. Since the track plan swung the track from front to back, and was symmetrical, I was able to spin the cut off pieces of foam end-to-end, and use them to build hills on the opposite side of the tracks with no additional cutting! More about the track plan later.

One note about the foam insulation board-- it has a definite 'grain.' Slicing in one direction makes a smooth, even cut. Cutting across the grain takes a bit more effort to avoid a ragged edge.

I cut my foam with vertical cuts. Thinking about it, cutting at an angle would make the contouring operation a bit faster. With vertical cuts, you also have to make the cuts a bit on the wide side, so the contours will be the proper width after you rasp part of the layer away. Of course, you gain back some of this when you slop on the scenery coating.

Once the layers looked good, it was time for glue. I used a 3M spray contact adhesive that does not attack foam. Work in a well ventilated area!! At this point, the scenery looked like a topographic map, with 1/2" contours.

I used a red-handled, slightly curved Surform tool to smooth the rough terrain, and a steak knife to carve in some gullies. Next step was to slop on paper towels dipped in plaster. I used a wire brush to turn the hillside into a layered, rocky hillside.

After the plaster had hardened I thought about adding some drainage under the track. A small culvert was easily inserted into the hillside below the track. But I wanted a larger something as well. At first, I was going to put in a bridge. So I gouged out a hole in the plaster shell where the bridge would go. But the bridges commercially available were too narrow. I did some preliminary work with a razor saw and some Atlas plate girder bridges, but didn't like the results.

After a few months (it was Summer), I remembered seeing large concrete culverts under river roads along the Delaware River in NJ. So I found a concrete tunnel portal that looked right, and modified my plasterwork even more. I used a section from the core of a roll of toilet paper to form the interior ceiling, and placed the portal. I then poured plaster over the form ("just like the prototype") and restored the scenery back to track level. After the repairs it was time for color, track, foliage, and details.

Another possibility is to use a piece of 1" x 10" board (actually 9-1/4" wide) as the chassis. This would give you an extra 1" of depth. Placed at the front of the module, the extra depth would allow the front track to have a passing siding up front.

A double-wide module seems to work fine. I think a triple or a quad on plywood or a plank might have too much sag without some help. Positioning the adjustment bolts 1/4 and 3/4 of the way along the long dimension of the plank might help; each bolt would be balancing 1/2 of the load, instead of bolts at the ends letting the entire module sag in the middle.

Screwing a length of 1"x2" down the center (2" dimension vertical) should give a 4' wide module enough stiffness. The screws would come up from the bottom of the module into the narrow edge of the 1"x2". Of course, your scenery will have to cover (or use-- (a dam? a retaining wall?)) this spine. The spine might not be required for the full width; perhaps a 2' length in the center would be enough. It could also be on a diagonal. Hmmmm....

There is another advantage to using a chunk of plywood or 1x10 as the chassis-- less woodworking! Your local home center will usually cut a board to length, or make a few cuts in plywood, for free or for a small fee. Insert the threaded inserts, and you're off to the scenery. No waiting for the glue to dry!

If you use 'official' construction, using 1/4" or 3/16" plywood, you don't need a table saw! You can cut plywood this thin with a utility knife and a metal straight edge! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A SCRAP LAYER UNDER YOUR WORK!! Line up the straight edge along your cut line. LIGHTLY score along the line to break the fibers and start your cut. Repeat several times, gradually increasing pressure as you cut. In a surprisingly short time, you'll be through the plywood and cutting your table top. There's also no saw kerf worth mentioning!

I've built a quad-wide module using 1/4" plywood for the top, and 1/2" x 3" poplar for the front, back, and sides. This provides ample stiffness for a 4' span. I used poplar because it was the only wood in this size that was straight and clear. And because it was sitting in a bin in the middle of the aisle.

Looking at a row of TTrak modules you see the long straight mainlines heading down the front of the table. But it's -boring-! I wanted something that would let me have scenery in front of the tracks as well. So I built a pair of double-wide modules as 'swing' or offset modules.

The track swings from the front of module 1 to the rear; module 2 reverses the swing; it's a mirror image of the track on the 1st module. The track at the rear of the modules is spaced the same distance from the back of the module as the normal distance from the front of the module. Any standard module(s) can be spun end for end and inserted between the swing modules. This makes it important that your modules look good from the back as well as the front!

For each offset module you'll need the following track. Note that these lists are for EACH track-- the 2nd track is assembled the same as the 1st, but flipped end-for-end (the track plan is symmetrical). The pieces I used, in order, are:

--------------------

--------------------

--------------------

2x64mm

R481-15

2x64mm

1x62mm

R481-15

1x62mm

The center of each track
can be any combination
that adds up to 190mm.

62mm

R718-15

124mm

R718-15

64mm

For 12" Deep Modules

- - - - - - - - - - -

29mm

2-R481-15

124mm

2-R481-15

The first two columns describe the track for standard 8-1/4" deep double-wide modules. Column 1 uses the Basic 25mm track spacing-- these are the modules I've built. Column 2 uses the Alternate 33mm track spacing.

The third column also uses the Alternate 33mm track spacing for an offset module to be used with a 12" deep double-wide module. This was designed at the request of Steve Jackson (who designed the junction modules, below). The curves are similar to the 'Original' standard offset module. The track is actually 3 or 4mm longer than the 620mm it should be for a double-wide module. However, this is less than 1/4" and should be 'fudgeable.'

Having the track move back and forth breaks up the long straightaway and provides an excuse (and a place) for more scenery in front of the tracks.

The curves on all versions are nice and broad; I think most equipment will handle them easily. The center section of the 'original' version is 190mm long (not quite 7-1/2").

The 33mm center-to-center versions have 124mm straight sections (not quite 5") in the center. The shallow version has curves that are about 9" broader than the other 2 versions.

These central straight sections should avoid most S-curve problems.

Although the revised TTrak standard allows you to use Kato's standard 33mm track spacing (the TTrak Alternate track spacing), you can 'cheat’ and use the Kato crossover and truss bridges with modules using the Basic 25mm track spacing. If you build a double-wide module, you just have to swing the tracks from 25.4 mm center to center out to 33 mm center to center-- that's 4 mm sideways for each track (not quite a quarter inch). You should be able to "cheat" on the alignment, or, use a couple of short sections to get a bit more play to get a 'straight curve' that lets you slip the crossover or double bridge into your module.

I've been violating the module size standard since I first thought about building a module-- I went right to designing double-wide and even a quad-wide module. I thought that a single-wide module didn't give enough space to -do- anything!

I've changed my mind (partly). It's like Haiku, or a Limerick-- You are given the standard shape of the thing. It's your job to be creative within that shape. More of a challenge to be creative and still fit the pattern. Like -this- limerick-- (I don't make 'em up; I just remember 'em!)

There once was a man from Siam

Who wrote verses that no one could scan

When asked, "Why is this?"

He said simply this:

"I always try to put as many words in the last line as I possibly can."

After creating several modules, and having fun with tape measure and try-square to get all of the ends to line up, I decided I needed something a bit more convenient. So I created an alignment gage. You'll need:

2 Blocks of 2x3 lumber 8-1/4" long

2 Carriage Bolts 1/2" x 5" long

6 Washers to fit on the bolts

4 Nuts to fit the bolts

2 Wing nuts to fit the bolts

2 pieces UniTrack 64mm long

Drill (a drill press would be ideal,

if available)

Drill bit 1-1/2" This should be a

spade or Forstner-style bit

Drill bit 1/2"

Drill bit 1/8"

Contact cement

C-clamp

Wrench to match nuts

Mark the locations for the track on one of the blocks of 2x3 lumber. On the broad side of the block, make 3 lines across the width of the block, at 1-1/2, 2-1/2, and 3-1/2 inches from one end. These are parallel to one end of the block. The lines outline the locations for the UniTrack sections.

On the same broad side of the block, mark the centerline parallel to the long dimension of the block. Mark locations near each end for one of the washers. Mark the center point of each washer. Be careful to avoid the locations for the track, yet don't fall off the end of the 2x3!

Clamp both blocks together on your workbench. Be sure to back up the 2x3s with scrap lumber; you're going to be drilling! Make sure the edges of the blocks are aligned.

At the marked centers of the washers, drill with the 1/8" bit through both blocks. These holes are to center the remaining drill work.

Release the clamp.

On the BOTTOM side of both blocks, drill with the 1-1/2" bit deep enough to countersink the bolt head or half of one of the nuts. This is about 1/4".

Re-clamp both 2x3s, carefully lining up the holes. Drill with the 1/2" bit through both blocks. The 1/2" hole must be drilled after the countersink is drilled or you'll have nothing for the 1-1/2" drill bit to center on!

Insert the bolts (without washers) into the countersunk side of the bottom block. Slide on the 2nd block WITHOUT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE TWO! Slide on a washer, then one of the regular nuts.

Clamp the 2 blocks together, being careful to align the edges of both blocks.

Tighten both nuts. Use the wrench, and tighten until the heads of the carriage bolts seat firmly into the wood and are countersunk below the level of the surrounding wood. It's important to do this while both blocks are together to make sure both blocks of wood will slide on the bolts.

Release the clamp, and loosen and remove the nuts. The bolts should stay put; don't move them! Remove the top 2x3.

Place the bottom 2x3 on the table, with the bolts pointing up. On each bolt, drop on a washer, spin on 2 nuts, and add a 2nd washer. Slide the 2nd block over the bolts, being sure to keep the track side up. Drop on the final washers, then spin on the wing nuts.

Lay the gage sideways on the table. This keeps the two blocks parallel. Tighten just the bottom nuts to anchor the bolt to the bottom block. This is a permanent tightening; be firm! Keep the edges of both blocks flat on the table as you tighten to make sure the blocks stay aligned.

Adjust the nuts under the top block so the top of the top block is precisely 4" from the bottom of the bottom block. Tighten the wing nuts firmly finger tight to keep this adjustment from moving.

Smear contact cement where the 2 pieces of track should go. While the cement is still wet, align the track with the lines you made earlier. Center them so they hang over the edges evenly.

Now wait 24 hours for the cement to dry.

Or, if you're in a hurry... After my gage fell sideways once too often and knocked the track loose, I used SuperGlue. Worked fine!

When completed, the gage will sit patiently on the tabletop with track side up.

The basic building block is 2x3" lumber. The 3" nominal dimension is actually 2-1/2" or so, about 64mm. The rail joiners don't actually lock onto the sections being checked; they're a tad too short. However, this is not a problem, since the gage isn't intended to be permanently attached to the layout.

The countersink under the top block is necessary to provide enough room to adjust the spacing the required +/- 1/4".

Don't countersink the top of the bottom block unless you have a LONG socket and socket wrench! You need something for the wrench to grab onto!

Tighten the wing nuts enough to stay put, but loose enough that you don't need a wrench to undo them.

After everyone agrees on the 'correct' height for the track, adjust the gage to that height. Slide the gage up to the end of a module. If the rail joiners don't line up, the gage wins. Adjust the module until it matches the gage.

You can adjust front to back by aligning the edge of the module to the top of the gage. Since both ends of the gage are measured as the wing nuts are tightened, a level table is not required; the gage compensates.

If there is a large adjustment, you may have to adjust both ends of the module at least twice-- Depending on the distance of the module's adjustment bolts from the end of the module, the adjustment of one end will look OK, until the 2nd end is brought into alignment. Then the first end will be off just a hair.

I think I like the idea of skyboards-- or, more accurately, view blockers. My feeling is that they should block the line-of-sight from one side of the table to the other. This will force the viewer to walk around the layout to follow a train, making the layout seem larger.

Although some modules have attached skyboards, a number of modules (including most of my own) do not. So I think a system of 'portable' skyboards is useful.

I made a noble attempt with foam insulation glued to a plywood core with angle bracket legs, but I was not happy with the design-- the legs were permanently attached, and were awkward to transport.

After thinking about it for a while, I came up with a simple, portable, variable design.

Quarter inch plywood panels are inserted into slots in 2x4 lumber feet. With a 'sky' panel in a central slot, I can add 'mountains' on both sides of the sky: I envision one or two layers of mountains made with 'mountain paint,' and a frontmost layer using a photographic backdrop. Or, I can stack 2 or 3 layers of 'city' backdrops to create an urban area.

The advantage of this method is that it's easy to slip the panels out of the feet, stack the skyboards into a compact bundle, and haul the bundle to or from a show. No angle brackets to jab the inside of my truck!

How To Do It

First, the feet. Start with 10'' long chunks of 2''x4'' lumber. I started with 12'' long chunks; this turns out to be at least 2'' too long. You'll need at least 2; I made about 6 to start with.

Slots are sawn into the narrow edge of the 2x4s. I marked the center lines for 7 slots, 1'' apart, centered along the length of the lumber. The slots are 1'' apart and 1'' deep. I marked the sides of the 2x4s with a 1'' 'depth mark', then used a power miter saw to make the slots. I carefully guided the saw into the 2x4s until it just touched the depth marks. I used multiple passes of the saw to make the slots wide enough to hold 1/4'' plywood skyboards, and a little extra room. Since this is a portable installation, the slots are wide enough to allow the panels to slip in and out without a struggle.

The skyboards are simply pieces of 1/4'' (or 3/16'') plywood.

The first skyboard is 18'' x 48''. This is for the 'sky.' I gave the top an 'artistic' curve, and painted it blue on both sides and all edges. Since it's plywood, it'll take a few coats of paint to obscure the wood grain!

The remaining panels are for the backdrops of your choice! I made several panels of 'mountains.' They are shorter than the sky, and overlap each other in various ways.

Because a TTrak layout can be assembled in a variety of arrangements, skyboards in varying widths are necessary. I have made a set of "skys" in 2, 3, 4, and 5 foot widths.

This design works well with my "original design" modules-- they're 8-1/4'' deep. This means that on a 30'' table, I have 12-14 inches between the modules (back-to-back). As module depth increases, to 12, 13, maybe 14-3/8 inches deep, the available space for module feet shrinks! I have a couple of ideas that may help, but they're less than half-baked at this point!

A Paint-Free Sky

At my local Build-A-Home center I discovered folded insulating board. It's 4' x 50' x 1/4'' thick, fan-folded (zig-zag folded) every 2 feet. It's a nice, even blue on one side, with black 'advertising' on the reverse.

I made a 3 foot wide skyboard by slicing off an "A" fold of zig-zag board (making sure the outside of the fold was the "blue" side and not the printed side). I cut it 18'' tall (measuring from the fold), and 3 foot wide. It slips into two of the slots in the 2x4 feet.

I expect to make more panels with cityscapes. The sky's the limit!

Low-Profile ViewBlocker Holder

Since modules are getting deeper and deeper, the available back to back space between opposite sides of the table is shrinking rather frighteningly!

Even if there's enough space for the sky and hills, you still need a little space for long legs to hold them up!

Here's an idea for a low-profile ViewBlocker Holder.

It's a series of wooden or plastic blocks fastened to a reasonably sturdy strip of metal. The metal strip can slip under a deep module and provide enough leverage to keep the sky upright.

If you only have room for 2 or 3 items you can make a set of legs with just enough slots for these items, and the legs will still slip under the modules.

Can't You Read The Sign?

There are times when a sign would make it easier to know you're looking at a T-Trak layout. Extend the center 'sky' board an additional 6'' higher and use the extra space for your identification:

Sky Blocker Cutting Diagrams

Here are the cutting diagrams I used to build a whole mess of Sky Boards and Mountain Ranges. These are all 4' x 8' sheets of 1/4'' plywood.

The first two are the ones I cut in the Summer of 2006. This gave me 2 each five, three, and two foot chunks of sky, and 2 each five, four, three, and two foot mountain ranges, and 1 four foot sky. Since I already had 1 four foot sky, this gave me two of each.

Note that the 'rolling hill' panels show how I envision the hills overlapping. These are not cutting lines, but guides for how I plan to paint the hillsides.

When I started using these, I discovered that if I wanted 2 mountain ranges on each side of the sky (for a two-tiered effect) I really only had enough mountains for 1 side of the sky! So, in the near future, the 3rd diagram will provide me with 2 more of five, four, three, and two foot mountain ranges, although one of the 4 foot mountains will be a couple of inches shorter than the one cut from the original cutting diagrams.

Of course, after you cut these out you need to paint them. I recommend a first coat of BINZ or KILZ to seal the plywood before you roll on the color. B & K are pigmented shellac and are intended to seal smoke damage and water stains so you can repaint easily. In our case, latex paint has a tendency to raise the grain on plywood. B & K will minimize this.

"Legs To Try"

Here's an alternate idea I dreamt up before the slotted 2x4 idea hit me. This one is a hinged leg that clamps onto a naked piece of foam insulation to hold it upright. If the gripping part of the clamp is tall enough (taller than the diagram indicates) it shouldn't be a destructive clamp. Plus, you can clamp onto different parts of the foam to spread out the wear.

I never actually built one of these, so builder beware!

"Blue on Blue..."

I discovered an almost instant method of creating a stand alone view blocker. At my local Build-A-Home center I discovered folded insulating board. It's 4' x 50' x 1/4" thick, fan-folded (zig-zag folded) every 2 feet. It has a thin plastic film on both sides, but this doesn't need to be removed.

The board I found is nicely blue on one side, and covered with black 'advertising' on the back side. To turn this into a view blocker, do the following:

1) Figure out how long you want your view blocker.

2) Unfold enough panels of the folded insulation to have enough length. You have to unfold more than the straight-line distance because the zig-zags take more distance than a straight line.

3) Slice off the necessary length from the bundle. Add one extra panel!

4) Shorten the 4' height down to 18". Do this from both edges; you'll have -2- 18" tall panels.

5) Flip one panel and arrange them so they are back-to-back with the black advertising between the panels. This is where the extra panel will be needed-- you have to shift one panel sideways so the zigs on one panel line up with the zags on the other.

You don't need to glue them together, they'll stay together pretty well. You don't need 'feet,' as long as the zig-zags are wide enough, they'll stand on their own.

A Brief History of a View Blocker

My first view blocker was a sandwich of 1/2" blue foam / 1/8" plywood / 1/2" blue foam, with shelf brackets for feet. It was 48" wide and 18" tall.

(Photo by Steve O'Toole)

(Photo by Steve O'Toole)

There were a few problems with this view blocker: (1) it was big. Blocked the view, but hard to transport; (2) it tended to pick up fingerprints; (3) those legs sticking out made it tricky to load into the cab of my truck without poking through the ceiling.

I'm including a few photos of this original view blocker, although I'm no longer using it.

The 'Basic Corner' for T-Trak specifies Kato 20-170 curved track: 8.5" radius (216mm). These are constructed on 12-1/4" square modules. Unfortunately, larger engines have problems with curves this tight.

Larger corners which conform to the T-Trak specifications, but have wider radius curves, can be built:

Corners for Basic Track Spacing

All of the above use 3 short sections of track from the Unitrack 20-945 Short Piece Assortment: 45.5mm / 1-3/4" straight at either end of the outside track, and a single 29mm / 1-1/8" straight between the two curved inner sections. This allows you to use the same radius track for both the inner and outer tracks.

You can also use flextrack for the corners and use short sections of straight Unitrack at the interfaces. This maintains the locking action of the Unitrack rail joiners between modules.

A layout with the largest of these corners will just fit on a 30" wide table. This would put all of the modules right at the edge of a 'standard' 30" table-- I suggest one of those under-the-carpet no-skid pads to make sure things don't jiggle off the edge!

The 282mm / 11.1" radius should be able to run most N steam engines and all N diesel engines. The 249mm / 9.8" radius can handle most diesel engines and some steam; the Kato Mikado handles the 9.8" curves acceptably; the Bachmann 2-8-0 Consolidation does also. The Kato RDC cars look a little funny around the 249mm / 9.8" corners-- the cars are long, and there's quite a bit of overhang.

Corners for Alternate Track Spacing

These track selections are for corners using the Alternate (33mm) center-to-center track spacing. This spacing does not require the 3 short straight sections of track.

The largest alternate corner should be able to handle almost any equipment you have. A layout with these corners will just fit on a 30" wide table. This would put all of the modules right at the edge of a 'standard' 30" table-- I suggest one of those under-the-carpet no-skid pads to make sure things don't jiggle off the edge!

The medium-sized alternate corner should be able to handle large equipment, but will suffer with more 'overhang' on the curves.

The smallest alternate corner should be restricted to short length equipment, and 4 axle diesel locomotives.

The medium and small corners will be more restrictive on the inner track than the outer track.

Inside & Outside Corners

After a while, a layout that's just a plain oval gets a bit boring. Or maybe the display space is limited, and you can't get the space you need in a straight line. So you make an "L" shaped layout. That's when these inside and outside corner calculations will come in handy.

Each layout requires 5 'regular' corners, and either a special inside or special outside corner to complete the layout. The calculations, below, will help you figure out how to construct the inside and outside corners needed to make the "L."

I've figured out the general formula for each corner type, and plugged in the values for three sizes of T-Trak corner: using 216mm, 249mm, or 282mm radius track on 12-1/4", 13-1/2", or 14-13/16" square corner modules.

For the Inside corner, I assume you'll be using 5 corners the same size, plus the special Inside Corner.

Inside Corners

If you click on the diagram (above) that just shows the 'answers,' you can see the diagram with the calculations you'll need to make for any general situation. As the numbers show, as the size of the corner modules grows, the square size for an inside corner shrinks. This means that for some large radius corner, an inside corner will be impossible!

Joe Price encountered this problem when calculating an inside corner for a TTrak-HO layout! I've looked over my 'general case' calculations, and I think that as a rule of thumb if the dimension "T" (the square that surrounds an inside corner module) is less than the size of corner you have selected, the inside corner module will fit, but you won't be able to make the track fit!

In that case, re-do the calculations with -3- straight modules on the outside legs of the "L."

Inside & Outside Corners

Outside Corners

For the Outside corner, I've figured out formulae so you can use different radius corners, as long as the 2 U-turns each use two identical corners.

If you click on the diagrams that just show the 'answers,' you can see the diagrams with the calculations you'll need to make for any general situation.

If you're setting up your TTrak layout to minimize space-- a layout on top of the row of book cases in the den, or in that long, skinny space under the eaves in the attic, perhaps-- you'll probably need a pair of these Return Loops, or a pair of Junction Modules (see below) to complete the circle of track.

Be warned! If you use crossovers or double-crossovers along with end loops anywhere in your layout, you must wire your layout with a reversing section, or suffer from a short circuit!

Note that I haven't actually =built= one of these return loops.

These end loops are designed to use existing corners-- you could still take the corners to an exhibition. You could create the loops as stand-alone modules, which incorporate the entire loop.

Building the return loops will require cutting one or more pieces of track to complete the loop. This is a good place for flex-track and snap-to-Unitrack adapters.

When the TTrak standard was created, the two mainline tracks were spaced on 1" (25.4mm) centers; butting the two tracks together, side by side. When modules ran the tracks down a street, the resulting look was just like the trolly/tram lines down the middle of Main Street. This track spacing resulted in the 'swervy' corners with 4 pieces of UniTrack of the same radius, plus a handful of short filler pieces.

Although the track spacing caused no problems with motive power or rolling stock of any size, spacing on the corners could result in -very- near misses. Plus, longer equipment had severe 'overhang,' resulting in non-prototypical appearance.

The Basic 25.4mm track spacing did not allow the use of the UniTrack double crossover, truss bridges, and elevated causeway pieces, all of which use the Kato 33mm track spacing. An 'Alternate' standard was created, which uses this 33mm spacing, and allows use of these pieces.

The Alternate 33mm track spacing standard uses 282mm and 315mm radii track on the corners, maintaining the 33mm spacing throughout the curves. These radii, on 14-3/8" square bases, handle just about any piece of equipment with minimal overhang.

Of course, having 2 incompatible standards means that if you want to use old and new modules together, you'll need adapters. The adapters (you'll need 2) fit on single-wide modules. The front track continues straight across, and the gap between the tracks widens from 0mm to 8mm separation. The modules should be mirror images of each other.

TRACK REQUIRED

Front Track: 310 mm (248 + 62)

Rear Track: 312 mm (248 + 64) This should be 4 x 62mm + 1 x 64mm

Using multiple pieces of track on the rear track will distribute the 8mm of swing required among 4 rail joints. As an alternative, use flex track and UniTrack to FlexTrak Adapters. I'd recommend leaving the 33mm end of the rear track loose, to allow for any variation in track spacing.

Junction Modules

More Than Going 'Round in Circles

Steve Jackson has been considering the standard TTrak layout: it goes 'round in circles, and not much further. He posted his thoughts and diagrams on the Yahoo group Http://Groups.Yahoo.Com/Group/T-Trak/message/673 in March of 2004 (message #673):

"The NTRAK club that I am in uses junction modules to connect multiple loops together allowing us to have one long mainline run and several smaller internal loops to keep plenty of trains running for the crowds. It also allows us to break out of the 'running in a circle' mold.

"Are any of y'all working on TTRAK junctions? The junction would be 14 3/8 x 23 7/16. The curved sections are the same that you use for the alternate [33mm track spacing] corners' inside tracks. The straight section would have to be done with flex track or a Kato expansion track since 23 7/16 does not convert to Unitrack-friendly units."

Steve actually built his junctions with a custom-cut length of Unitrack and avoided the expansion track.

Jim Nealand did some more experimenting with available track lengths and found that you can use standard lengths (although quite a few pieces) for the straight section--

248 + 29 + 45.5 + 29 + 248 = 599.5mm

This is longer than the 595mm needed, but with careful adjustment of the curved sections should be workable.

Steve continued, "The junction could also serve as an end loop if you just added 3 alternate [33mm track spacing] corners. (You could even drop feeders to run a train around the resulting inner loop.)

"The main issue with this concept so far is that you can end up with an s-curve that has no tangent. The referenced pics show it without this problem, but if you used it as an end loop and draw out the junction plus 3 corners, you will see the S."

One solution to Steve's problem with the S-curve is to insert a couple of straight modules in the loop. This makes the loop bigger, but eliminates the S-curve. Or, you could run short equipment that wouldn't be as sensitive to the S-curve!

Junction Module with 5 Legs

Junction Module with 3 Legs

In most cases, a Junction Module will be used at the junction (!) of 2 tables to make an "L" in the layout. This means that one corner of the junction module will be positioned over thin air (unless a piece of plywood is placed over the tables).

In many cases this extra plywood can be eliminated by building the junction modules with 5 legs instead of 4! This extra leg, positioned where both curved tracks come together, will support the module and keep it from toppling off of the table and into the abyss.

You can actually get away with only 3 legs, at the 3 points where tracks leave the module, but the 'extra' 2 legs will provide support and confidence.

The area of the module suspended in space is about 25% of the junction; the mass of the remaining portion will keep the module anchored to the table unless you build your model of the lead foundry (made of genuine lead) on one of the corners of the junction! The UniTrack connections to the adjoining modules will also help to anchor the module to the top of the table.

The Double-Cross Module From Heil

In Honor of Gomez Adams

Brian Heil has been designing modules as well. His addition to TTrak is a module that will turn a TTrak layout into a double-track figure-8 layout, complete with all of the possible collisions that includes!

Looking at the plan, the module is an irregular hexagon.

Start with a square 23.5 inches on a side.

Starting from 2 opposite corners (A & E), measure 14-3/8" along the sides, and mark four cut points, at B, D, F, & H.

Cut along lines B-D and F-H to lop off two alternate corners and make the hexagon.

Alternate straight or corner modules will connect to sides AB, AH, ED, and EF.

The module requires 4 Kato 90 degree crossings, plus 8 lengths of UniTrak 265.5 mm long. This is not a length possible with standard sections; you'll have to use 8 adjustable sections, or make fillers of your own. I'd suggest 186.0 (standard) + 79.5 (custom) for each of the 8 lengths.

PS-- Brian hasn't actually -built- one of these (yet).

Because of the probability of collisions when running a double-track figure 8, some kind of control is necessary to limit the damage.

The wiring diagram below shows one wiring scheme that will block nearly all collisions by only powering tracks in one direction at a time.

Ideally, an automatic detection circuit would switch things so the first train to the module would get the power. When the first train cleared the module, the other train would be powered.

Both tracks in one direction would be powered at once.

The only situation where this would be a problem is if a train were running backwards, or had a pusher engine at the back. In either case, the train could be pushed through the junction before the engine hit the dead zone.

Gomez Adams would be -so- proud!

Double Crossing

The following double crossing layout raises one set of tables above the other to allow a table-width crossing. The tables with the upper track needs to be raised; try 4x4 blocks under their legs.

The upper table line requires 2 table-wide bridges or causeways to span the gap!

An extensive upper layout will require a lot of blocks; plan carefully!

Non-Conforming Bridge Concept

I've always liked the bridges built by the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railroad (DL&W) across the Paulinskill, Delaware, and one other river location I can't remember right now. The viaducts were compound arches, and were a LOT taller than can be accomodated even by raising a TTrak module to 4" running height!

Of course, this will require special tablework-- first, a lower table to support the deeper bridgework, second, a partner bridge to fill in the opposite side of the table.

Maybe this is the bridge to use with the elevated crossing tables!

There are times when commercially available sections of UniTrack just don't fit. Although UniTrack has an adjustable track section, I've always been leery of such things.

I've done some surgery on UniTrack to fit some special circumstances, and so have others. Here are my method, plus those of 2 others:

My method

Slicing and dicing a custom piece of UniTrack isn't difficult. You'll need a razor saw that hasn't lost all of its teeth.

1) Measure the length of track you need.

2) Saw a suitable piece of UniTrack to a hair less than this length.

3) Look at the factory end of the piece of UniTrack. Notice the gap under the ends of the rails. Cut similar notches on the cut end.

4) To join your track to factory UniTrack, use 'standard' Atlas rail joiners.

I'd recommend using the cut end deep within the module; the Atlas rail joiner doesn't have the same grip that the UniTrack joiners do.

Rail nippers could cut the rails quickly, but nippers have a nasty tendency to squeeze the cutoff piece of track out of the UniTrack-- in this situation, I think the razor saw works better. Especially since UniTrack has the ballast embankment to deal with, too.

With very short pieces of track I'd also recommend soldering the joints once you've got the lengths adjusted. Otherwise, you'll find things 'adjusting' themselves!

A Better Mousetrap

On the Kato Unitrack newsgroup Http://Groups.Yahoo.Com/Group/KatoUnitrack/, Robert Myers wrote:

"I've found a relatively simple way of trimming Unitrack. Look at a piece carefully. You will notice that at one end there are a couple of stake marks on the rail to fix the rail to the base. Call this the fixed end. With a razor saw, cut [only] the base about 1/2 [of the desired finished] length from the the fixed end. For appearance's sake, it helps to do this in the ballast, rather than the tie area.

"Slide the base off the free end. Cut the removed section of base to the remaining desired length. File the ends of the base for exact fit if needed. Slide the free base back on. Glue the base together with liquid styrene cement. Reinforce if necessary with lengths of styrene strip. Let dry at least two hours. Cut off wild rail flush to end of base with rail nippers. This can be done with straights to get custom lengths and with curves to get odd angles of curvature."

Yet Another Better Mousetrap

On the TTrak newsgroup Http://Groups.Yahoo.Com/Group/T-Trak/, Andrew George also built a better mousetrap:

"G'day Folks-

"After a week or two of careful thought and now half an hour of playing with flexible track, Unitrack, and a Dremel motor tool I may be on to something very good: Code 55 Continuous Welded Rail for T-Trak.

"For a standard 310mm track length straight module:

"STEP 1. Take a length of Peco Code 55 flexible track and cut two pieces 310mm long.

"STEP 2. Take two 128mm Unitrack straights and cut through the plastic BALLAST BASES (and not the rail) from underneath approximately 50mm from each end. You will find that the centre section and one of the end sections will slide off the rails quite easily.

"STEP 3. Closely examine the section of Unitrack that still has the rails attached. If you look closely at the rail near the rail joiners you will see some little `notches' that have been pressed into the base of the rail to secure it in place on the track base. Using a pair of pliers or similar tool to securely grab onto the rail, gently pull it out of the track base in the direction along the track base and AWAY from the rail joiner. A close look at the notches will let you know which way to pull the rail so that it will not `catch'. It is a bit tricky to do, but not too hard if care and thought is taken.

"The result of steps 2 and 3 should be two 50mm long pieces of Unitrack base with rail joiners attached.

"STEP 4. Taking the 310mm lengths of Peco Code 55 remove 50mm of sleeper webbing from each end.

"STEP 5. The top flange on the bare Peco Code 55 can be a bit tight on the Unitrack rail joiners and so use a Dremel Motor Tool (or similar) and a cutting disc to carefully grind away about 5mm of this top `flange' on both sides of each end of each rail on the 310mm lengths. This 5mm end should now resemble conventional Code 80 rail in profile.

"STEP 6. Carefully slide the Peco Code 55 into the chair/spike mouldings on the Unitrack bases from the cut end, not the rail joiner end. You should end up with two 310mm lengths of track with Peco sleeper webbing in the middle and Unitrack bases and rail joiners on the end ready to fit straight on to your module.

"STEP 7. (Still to be trialled) Cut appropriately sized styrene strip to make new sleeper sections to glue on top of the existing Unitrack sleepers and have the tops line up with the top flange on the Peco Code 55 rail.

"STEP 8. Paint the new sleeper sections and the rest of the track an appropriate track colour (don't forget to mask off the end 5 or 6mm where the Unitrack joiners have to have clean rail to make a good electrical connection). When dry, ballast.

"The finished look should be quite good.

"In place of a 128mm Unitrack straight you could cut a 62mm straight directly in half and probably have the rail held fairly securely.

"I have done STEPS 1 to 6 using Peco Code 80 with good results. The process cuts the track costs considerably and can even be used on corner modules, the details of which will be posted in about a week or two when the grey cells are again in good order and not committed to vocation, family and other stuff.

"This work is still at the experimental stage and I would appreciate someone doing the `scientific' method and trying it for themselves just to see if both the process (and my instructions) make sense and are workable. If someone wants to write up some better instructions, add photo's etc. and post it on either this Group or on their own web-page, GO FOR IT!

"Regards,

"Andrew G. (of Auz)"

UniTrack is very reliable, and doesn't usually cause problems. A standard module only has 1 interior rail joint per track. If a module has a lot of short pieces of track the number of rail joints increases quickly-- and those are the places where reliability (and your trains) can falter.

To increase reliability I recommend soldering all track connections on modules. Now, you can argue that soldering makes it difficult to un-build a module. Practically speaking, what are the chances you'll ever do that? If you ever do, you'll probably be able to pop off the entire length of track at once and reuse it-- soldered joints and all.

I've been going back and soldering the track on my existing modules with mixed success-- fresh, un-sceniced track solders very nicely. Unfortunately, once you've got grass, glue, glop, and goop in the gaps, it's almost impossible to solder. For those places I recommend drilling holes through to the underside of the module, soldering wires to each section of track, and joining them beneath the layout. I'm hoping for much better performance this year! (:

Kato's UniTrack comes complete with at least 3 ways of connecting power to the rails:

(1) The 20-041 (62mm) Feeder Track

On the Official TTrak Web Site () the diagram of the basic module shows the feeder tracks mounted at opposite ends of the module, with 3/4" holes to allow for the power feeds.

When assembled in this manner, the blue wires on the Feeder Track will power the outside rails.

So the rule is: "Blue wire to the outside"

(2) The 24-818 Terminal UniJoiner

When using the Terminal Unijoiners make sure the joiners with the blue wires connect to the outside rails.

(3) The 24-828 Double-Track Viaduct Power Cord

Unfortunately, the design of the Viaduct power attachments is contrary to the TTrak "Blue to the Outside" rule. However, there's a fairly simple work-around.

Here's a view of the top and bottom with parts identified...

Here's a close up of the Viaduct power connections.

The viaduct connectors are keyed; there's a notch along one side of the socket, and a corresponding nub on the plug. This makes it impossible to mis-align the plug, but doesn't allow Blue-to-the-Outside.

The fix is simple. I've placed the power connections on the 2 adjoining sections of Viaduct so the connections are on the ends of the Viaducts nearest each other.

This places the key notches towards each other, and also reverses the connection. Power each track using the connection points on different sections of Viaduct, and you still have Blue-to-the-Outside.

You can only do this if the Viaduct includes at least 1 straight section, or if your Viaduct includes an "S" curve.

Of course, this all assumes that you're going to feed power to the viaduct using the Viaduct Power Connectors. If you do, you'll have to come up with a way to hide the power cord. It may be easier to power from the ends of the viaduct and avoid this problem entirely!

Kato's UniTrack is an amazingly robust product. It's almost impossible to mis-align a rail joiner, and the action of joining and unjoining track keeps the contacts clean.

Unfortunately, the rail joints within a module never have a chance to be cleaned in this manner. And all of the scenic paint, glue, gunk, and goo are magically drawn into the narrow confines of the UniJoiners.

In many cases this is not a major problem; there is still enough contact to keep power flowing. However, as TTrak layouts grow larger and larger all of the minor power drops add up. And the trains s-l-o-w d-o-w-n on the sections of the layout farthest from the power connection.

With analog/DC controls this is bad enough, but with digital/DCC it's even worse.

The solution is to use the power connections that should be available on many modules and provide a parallel path for power-- plug in more modules! This is why it's important that all power connections follow the "Blue-to-the-Outside" rule!

If there are no power connections in a convenient location, 24-818 Terminal UniJoiners can be used between any 2 modules. It is probably a good idea to split the cord, so you have a lot more slack between the 2 joiners-- when you separate the modules, one joiner is going to stay with each module!

If your layout has grown to an amazing size you may notice that your trains slow down at the end farthest from the power connection. The solution is to plug more modules into track power. But it's a pain to have to hook together a large number of Kato Extension Cords (about 3 foot long each) in order to feed power to the "other end" of the layout.

With each cord you get an additional plug/jack connection. And the cord is fairly small gauge, so you will lose some power with each section you add.

A more robust (and longer) extension cord would be nice.

Some things to consider:

.............................

- Provide power to both mainlines independently

.....= Depending on the size of the layout loops, and the number of loops, the 'inner mains' may not need additional power, but can be powered 'locally.' A single table or so can probably be powered with a single power feed.

- Provide 'auxilliary power' for AC or DC accessories

.....= This may be physically bundled with track power lines, or kept separate. Your choice.

- Power outlets should be easily identified

.....= The track power cords from your modules will be standard Kato Blue/White cords with a Kato plug on the end.

.....= Following the lead of its larger N-Trak cousin, which colors its 3 mainlines from the outside to the inside as Red, Yellow, and Blue, T-Trak modules identify the outer mainline as the "Red" line; the inner mainline as the "Yellow" line. "Outer" or "Outside" is the edge of the module closest to the crowd.

.....= Although there is no official standard, I suggest that you color the outlets:

.....= Red = Outer Mainline

.....= Yellow = Inner Mainline

.....= Green = AC Accessory Power (matches the color of the connectors on Kato's AC Extension Cords)(the cords use brown/white wires)

.....= ???? = DC Accessory Power (Kato DC Extension Cords use translucent connectors and blue/white wires)

.....= You can use colored electrical tape or shrinkable tubing to 'color' the outlets

.....= Another possibility-- If you need DC accessory power, rectify it on-module. A bridge rectifier chip is (probably) available at Radio Snack-- it has 4 connections, and the package will identify which terminals are AC in and DC out. This will save one set of wires on the tabletop.

- long enough but not too long

.....= easy to daisy chain several cords together

.....= One or two 'table lengths' long (if 2 tables long, provide jacks at the half way point)

- Low power loss (ie thicker wires) able to handle Digital/DCC current levels

- Multiple outlets with Kato compatible connectors that modules can plug into

.....= An equivalent plug/jack set is the "2913 Mini Tamiya plug kit (M/F)," available from Maxx Products at http://www.maxxprod.com. You may also find them at hobby shops that sell remote control (RC) items.

.....= see the "Track Power Routing" section, below, for a wiring diagram for some selector switches. This assumes you'll actually -need- to switch power sources.

.....= see the NV-N-Trak, T-Trak Division web site ( )-- they have made a set of power cables based on the N-Trak alternate standard (using Anderson Power Pole connectors). This allows them to share power supplies between the N-Trak and T-Trak Divisions.

Because there is a need to select between DC/Analog and DCC/Digital power, my personal power packs run through a Power Routing Switcher

Don't worry-- all the pieces are available at your local Radio Snack store.

Ted wrote: "One part of the Unitrack system I don't care for is the turnout control switch... What kind [of toggle switch] do I need and how do I attach the wires from the DC converter and the turnout? Thanks in advance, Ted"

The Kato Turnout is moved by a Turnout Motor. It's a tiny solenoid, hidden under and inside the ballast strip. The Turnout Motor runs on DC (Direct Current). This is different than the common Atlas turnout motor, which will run on DC or AC (Alternating Current).

Because the Turnout Motor runs on DC, it only needs 2 wires connected to it. To throw the turnout, one wire ('A') is positive and the other ('B') is negative; going in the other direction 'A' is negative and 'B' is positive.

The Turnout Motor is only fed electricity for the moment it takes to move the points.

The Kato turnouts can be controlled manually or electrically. There is a manual lever poking out of the ballast strip next to the free end of the point rails. There are 2 ways to electrify the Kato switches:

Use the official Kato #24-840 Turnout Controllers, and the #24-842 DC Converter (ie Power Adapter).

The DC Converter (Power Adapter) is a rectifier. Physically, it is a little box with wires on one edge, and 2 snap connectors (very much like the ones on a 9v battery) on one side. The wires connect to the AC terminals of your power pack, and DC is fed out of the snap connectors.

The Turnout Controllers are blue plastic electrical switches. Snap connectors on both sides (male on one, female on the other) allow a row of controllers to be snapped together. The DC Converter is snapped to the left side of the first controller in a row to supply electricity to the entire row. A socket on the back mates with the plug on the cord from the turnout motor.

The Turnout Controller is a momentary contact Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT) switch. As you move the control from one position to the other, contact is made for a brief fraction of a second, sending DC current to the Turnout Motor.

The "other" way: You can use MOMENTARY CONTACT double-pole, double-throw switches (with MomentaryOn / Off / MomentaryOn positions). They are wired the same way a reversing switch for track power is wired, but the power coming in is fixed DC (Direct Current) from your power pack, and the power goes out to the Kato turnout connector. You'll have to cannibalize a Kato power cord to get the connector (I haven't had any luck finding naked Kato connectors). This lets you pick a MOMENTARY CONTACT DPDT switch that you can mount on your control panel.

NOTICE: IF you use the Unofficial Way, YOU MUST use a MOMENTARY toggle switch! If you use a plain, ordinary toggle switch, you'll burn out the turnout motor!!! And have just a manual turnout.

If you look at the back of the momentary double-pole, double-throw, center-off toggle switch, it has 6 electrical terminals: 3 pairs of 2 terminals. Hold the momentary toggle switch so there are 3 rows of 2 terminals. It is wired the same as you would wire a reversing toggle switch for track feed. Connect the center 2 contacts to the auxiliary DC (Direct Current) terminals of your power pack.

The remaining four contacts are wired as follows: Connect 2 short wires across the 'diagonals' of the momentary toggle switch: from upper-left to lower-right, and from upper-right to lower-left. Wires to the turnout motor connect to the upper-left and upper-right contacts.

Since a switch doesn't care about polarity, it doesn't matter which pair of wires goes to the track, and which pair goes to the DC Power supply.

This re-creates the effect of the Kato controller. When you push the momentary toggle in one direction, wire 'A' is positive and 'B' is negative; pushing the momentary toggle in the other direction, 'A' is negative and 'B' is positive. When you mount the momentary toggle switch in your control panel, you can turn it around so the toggle moves in a logical direction.

Concerning the wires heading for the turnout: you'll probably need to sacrifice a Kato extension cord to get the female connector that mates with the connector that powers the turnout motor. If you're -really- brave, you can sacrifice the connector on the turnout and just connect the wires. (: However, I've found that being able to unplug things has a certain amount of convenience.

The problem with using a momentary toggle switch is that you can't tell which direction the turnout is in after it's thrown-- the position of the toggle switch is always in the center. IF YOU INSERT A MOMENTARY PUSH BUTTON (ie doorbell button) IN ONE OF THE LEADS FROM THE POWERPACK, you can use a normal (non-momentary) DPDT toggle switch. And the position of the handle will point in the direction the turnout is thrown. You will move the toggle switch to the desired position, then push the momentary push button.

The drawback with this is that you have to throw the toggle then press the button. But the toggle does represent the position of the turnout. IF YOU DON'T USE THE MOMENTARY PUSHBUTTON IN SERIES YOU'LL BURN OUT THE KATO TURNOUT MOTOR!! You could make the toggle switch a 3PDT (Three-pole, Double-throw) switch, and use the additional contacts to control the panel lights.

One possible advantage of the switch/pushbutton combination is that you could wire it so the one button controls a whole bank of switches: flip a dozen or more toggles, press one button, and watch the layout walk across the floor as all of the turnout points thud against the stock rails at the same time. Your power supply may not be up to it though... (:

You've been warned!

Did I hear someone say "pushbuttons?" Here's a circuit that will let you use momentary SPST (Single-Pole, Single-Throw) pushbuttons to control your turnouts. The power source is the -AC- output from a power pack, and a couple of 2.5 Amp, 1000 PIV (Peak Inverse Volts) diodes to turn the AC into pulsed DC to run the turnouts. You'll have to experiment to figure out which button moves the turnout which direction.

This diagram shows how the diodes turn AC into pulsed DC. AC current is a "sine wave;" that's the shape of the curve (and my curve is only an approximation of the correct shape). Notice that AC current starts at zero, goes positive to a peak, then back thru zero and negative by the same amount, then back to zero. The diodes select either the positive or the negative current, depending on which button is pressed, and route it to the turnout.

There are several circuit ideas out on the web that will light up appropriate indicators while allowing you to use a momentary DPDT switch. Start with http://www.awrr.com/indicator.html.

Someone asked if it was necessary to have a power supply for every 6 turnouts. No, you should be able to plug a large number of Kato controllers together (or wire an equally large number using momentary switches) without problems, as long as you only throw one or two turnouts at once! The problem is when you try to throw all of the turnouts at once-- the power supply won't be able to handle the drain.

I opened up one of these to see what was inside. No, there's no conventional switch in there!

The controller is clamped together by the male and female snaps on the outside and 2 metal posts inside the shell. The female snap is swaged to the post. The post slips into the right half-shell, and the snap fits into a socket; it won't slip through the shell. A clip on each post keeps it from falling back out and keeps it standing straight during assembly, After the left half-shell is placed over the controller, 2 teensy screws hold the male snaps to the posts, and clamp the controller together.

Back inside, the female plug (the one that mates with the cable that heads to the turnout motor) fits into molded guides at the back of the controller. 2 springy wires connect to the plug, and describe a U-shaped path, with one wire on the 'North' side of the 2 posts, and the other on the 'South' side.

A complicated-looking pivoting Thingy between the posts grips the wires. The control handle is a separate piece, and wiggles the Thingy either clockwise or counter-clockwise. As the Thingy moves, one wire is pushed against post "A" while the other is pushed against post "B." In one direction wire 1 touches post A, and 2 touches B, in the other wire 2 touches post A and 1 touches B.

A tiny cylinder slips over a post on the Thingy to reduce friction between the Thingy and the control handle.

A simple yet elegant way to build a switch! And the person who designed the "Thingy" is amazing!

This is a lot simpler-- Inside the case is small circuit board with 4 diodes mounted on it-- a standard bridge rectifier circuit. The circuit fits into the base of the case. The lid fits over the circuit board, and 2 female snaps fit through the lid. Two teensy screws clamp the snaps to the circuit board and the back of the case, and also hold the lid shut. The case indicates 17 volts AC in (via wires), and 12 volts DC out (via the snaps).

Because it's a bridge rectifier, you can feed it with DC if you like, and the correct polarity power will show up at the snaps.

An electrical switch can be either Continuous contact or Momentary contact. Examples: Continuous-- a light switch, one position is ON, the other is OFF. Momentary-- a doorbuzzer button, the buzzer only buzzes when your finger is pushing the button.

A simple on-off switch is a Single-Pole, Single-Throw (SPST) switch. Power comes in on a single wire, and can leave by another. The switch provides a mechanism that allows you to join the 2 wires with a piece of metal, completing the circuit.

A Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch consists of 2 switches (Double-Pole), each of which can complete 2 circuits (Double-Throw). The 2 switches (Poles) are joined internally and can not be operated independently. Within each pole, power comes in on a single wire (the Common wire), and can leave by 2 different routes. The switch provides a mechanism that allows you to connect the Common wire to either of the other 2 wires.

Double-throw switches come in several flavors: 2 "ON" positions; 2 "ON" positions and a center "OFF" position; and Momentary "ON" / "OFF" / Momentary "ON." This third type is what we need to control Kato Unitrack turnout motors.

The diagrams show the switch in its 2 "ON" positions. Power arrives via the wires connected to the center (Common) pair of terminals.

Depending on the position of the switch, internal connections link power to the top terminals, leading to the turnout motor, or to the bottom terminals.

If power is connected to the bottom terminals, it flows acros the "X" wires to the top terminal on the -opposite- side, reversing the polarity of the power (ie the Red and Blue are reversed).

It doesn't matter if you swap the 2 pair of wires leading to the switch; it functions just the same if the wires connected to the common terminals go to the turnout motor and the top terminals are connected to the power pack.

Layouts & Modules

Some Ideas

Here are some doodles I've put together. Note that I haven't actually =built= any of these layouts! Most of them were designed and assembled using Visio, a drawing program that lets you assemble objects and paste copies of them all over the place. The size of any 'errors of closure' (those nasty oddly-shaped gaps) were determined by examining these drawings.

Note for the Pinwheel, T, Z, and L shaped layouts-- they won't fit on regular banquet tables without additional pieces of plywood to fill in some 'open air' areas.

The Pinwheels of My Mind

Since TTrak's 'big brother,' NTrak, has created layouts using central junctions with arms of the layout heading off in all directions, why shouldn't TTrak be able to do the same thing?

The 6 layouts below attempt to fill that need. The diagrams below show 'shortened' arms. Any arm can be extended to infinity; just add identical lengths of modules on each side of the table.

The arms of all layouts are designed to fit on 30" wide tables. The hubs of all the layouts need extra support to keep all of the modules on top of the tables.

Layout #1, the "Plus" layout, is a simple layout that uses 12 identical corners to create branches heading in 4 directions. Both main lines traverse the entire layout.

Until you insert modules in all 4 arms the layout is composed of nothing but "S" curves. You'll need at least 8 straight modules to cure this problem.

The hub needs an added 48" x 48" piece of plywood.

Layouts #2 and #3 each use 8 junction modules to create 'Plus' modules.

Unlike the first plus, layout #2 creates an inner loop that stays within the hub. The outside main traverses the entire layout, and each arm has a loop using the inner main that stays on the individual arm.

This layout can be expanded in all 4 directions. Along the major axis, the inner loop can be expanded, or the end loops, or all 3.

The junction modules in the hub need either an extra leg where the 2 curved tracks come together, or a 4 foot square of plywood for support.

Layout #3 also uses 8 junction modules. This time, however, the layout is symmetrical, although the arms 'pinwheel' around the hub, rather than being directly opposite each other.

Expansion is limited to the 4 arms.

The junction modules in the hub need either an extra leg where the 2 curved tracks come together, or a 6 foot square of plywood for support.

Layout #4 uses 4 junction modules and 'pinwheels' in just 2 directions.

Expansion is limited to the 2 arms.

A 48" x 53-1/2" piece of plywood is needed to support the parts of the modules that would otherwise be over the abyss.

Layouts #5 and #6 expand the Pluses into Hexes-- 6 arms each. To accomplish this end, six 30 degree segments of track are used to curve the arms in the right directions.

Layout #5 is similar to layout #3: it uses 12 junction modules and six 30 degree segments to link the arms. It has an inner loop that stays in the hub, the outer main traverses all of the arms, and each arm has a dedicated loop using the inner mains.

Unfortunately, the hub loop in #5 is loaded with "S" curves. Ideal for Thomas the Tank Engine or other short equipment.

Layout #6 is similar to version #1; it uses 3 corners plus the 30 degree segments for each of the arms. Both mains traverse the entire layout.

Depending on how #1 and #6 are powered, you may only be able to have 2 trains running on a rather large layout. You may have to use insulated rail joiners and create blocks, or run multiple trains on 1 track and keep a close eye on things, or run with DCC.

Numbers #2, #3, #4, and #5 can have a similar problem on the long outside main. Depending on how long each arm is, you may want to run multiple trains on the inside main on each single arm.

Modules #2, #3, #4, and #5 have dedicated loops that never leave the hubs. The hub loop for layout #2 can be extended, but the other loops are fixed size. In layout #3 the hub is only about 4' across. In layout #4 the loop is just under 8' across.

Lee Monaco FitzGerald's Hub

At the 2006 National Train Show in Philadelphia, Lee Monaco-FitzGerald presented her Star Junction Layout hub design. She used custom hub modules designed to bridge the ends of 2 tables to form a 6-pointed star. Each arm can grow independently, depending on available modules and available space.

Please check Lee's Official TTrak Website () for dimensions and construction techniques.

Although intended for use as a central hub with radiating arms, the hub modules can be used for some alternate layouts:

The only drawback to some of these designs is that they have 'S' curves... making some of the tracks suitable only for shorter equipment.

A few of the plans can be made less-S-curved with a minor re-arrangement of the "hub line:"

The Rectangle Layout

The "T" Layout

Note for the T-shaped layout-- there is an odd-sized filler piece required. From examining the diagrams and scaling, it appears to be 8-1/2" wide x normal module depth.

The "Z" Layout

The "L" Layout

Note for the the L-shaped layout-- it appears there is a 2" error of closure in each direction. A big enough layout could 'cheat,' and jimmy things around until they matched up.

All the World's a Staging Yard

Here are 6-1/2 yard designs I've been doodling with. They're staging yards for the most part, although some have hopes of becoming a prototypical yard at some time.

All of them use the Alternate 33mm track spacing standard.

And, no, I haven't built any of these, either! Some use Kato #4 turnouts heel-to-toe-- these alignments won't work without surgery on the turnouts to trim them to fit. It may be better to use Peco brand turnouts instead-- they have a spring action that holds the turnouts to the desired route more strongly than Kato turnouts.

A & D

A is 12-1/2" deep x 8-modules long. It incorporates 2 double crossovers. Five storage tracks are shared by both mainlines. The design acts as an 'offset' module; another offset module is required to return the mainlines back to the front of the layout. The double crossovers may cause fun with wiring...

D is actually 2 yards. Each yard is 13-1/2" deep x 8 modules long, and has 6 storage tracks. The yards are complimentary-- the one on the left provides storage tracks for the inside main, the one on the right has storage for the outside main.

B & C

B and C are full-table-wide yards. As drawn, both are 10 modules long. The size will require serious transportation, and each takes a table and a quarter! Both are intended to work with Alternate 33mm track spacing, possibly with 2 alternate corners adjacent to the yard.

B is actually 2 yards on a single base. Double crossovers at each end of the yards allow you to mix and match traffic. Each has 5 storage tracks, 10 stub tracks and a couple of tracks that can be used as switching leads.

Although layout C is as big as its neighbor, it is a single yard for each track. The module occupies the full width of a table, but on one side the mains just travel through. On the yard side, the mains swing to the center of the available space, so each main has 7 storage tracks. Each main only has to navigate 1 turnout at each end of the yard. Because the yard is a pyramid shape, the tracks for the inner main are a lot shorter than those for the outer main.

E, F, & G

These layouts are similar in capacity- each main has 3 storage tracks. E & F are 13-1/2" deep; G is 16" deep. All are 8 modules long. I'm pretty sure the gaps that show in the diagrams are a figment of the design program I use.

Layout E is centered on the module, so half-offset modules are required to swing the mains to meet the yard. There are a couple of stub tracks probably suitable for spare motive power.

Layout F starts with the tracks in normal position, and swings them aside as needed. The inner main gets the shorter tracks.

Layout G is really just layout E shifted forward a few inches. After staring at the diagrams for ages, and making a lot of sketches, I came to the conclusion that I liked the extra capacity of layout E, but didn't like the idea of the half-offset modules required to use it. So layout G cantelevers 4" of module in the thin air at the front of the module, relying on the remaining 12" of module on the table to keep things from the abyss.

Although G is a larger module, the extra depth behind the tracks is well suited for some bas-relief scenery.

E, F, and G all have a couple of corners that could be used for some short spurs, probably for spare motive power.

My Favorites

My current favorites are the single yard in G, and the double yard in D. Both are big enough to be useful, small enough to be built as two 4' sections, and don't require external modules to position the track.

Although I'd love the extra capacity that yards D provide, transportation begins to take its toll as modules grow.

I think construction can be done in two 4' sections. If done carefully, the two sections can be clamshelled together to make a box. Some nice end caps will protect the rails and keep out dust and debris. It should make a large, but not impossible package about 4-1/2' x 20" x 16".

The table below gives some numbers that will allow you to estimate the speed of your trains. The numbers are keyed to typical module lengths to make things easier.

Modules To Go

Tote That Module!

As I began accumulating a (small) pickup truck full of TTrak Paraphernalia, including an ever-growing collection of large plastic tubs in which to haul TTrak modules, it quickly became apparent that I needed a transportation container that would protect the modules from damage, be easy to load, and minimize the number of containers to haul. My sketches resulted in the slide-in container shown in Diagram #1.

Diagram #1

The containers allow the modules to slide drawer-like into a sturdy yet lightweight package. To accomplish this feat, I fastened 1/4" hardboard to the bottom of my modules to act as drawer slides. The containers have just-greater-than 1/4" slots that accept the modules. I was careful to position the hardboard on straight modules so that it would not interfere with corner modules, and vice-versa. Unlike Diagram #1, the hardboard doesn't extend the full width of a standard module, but stops about 2" short of each end.

Diagram #2

Diagram #2 shows the inside of the 2 sides and the back of the container. The framework is relatively lightweight molding Gorilla-glued to a skin of 3/16" plywood. Although I used stapler-driven brads to hold things in alignment during construction, most of the container's strength comes from the Gorilla glue.

The framing members along the top and bottom of the side panels (as well as the struts joining the 2 sides together) are 3/4" square. The runners and framing around the door are 1/2" x 3/4" square (with the 3/4" side glued to the side panels).

I've built 2 different size containers. The container shown above has 3 slots to hold modules. The width was planned so I could store straight modules up to 9-1/4" front-to-back. That's 1" more than a standard module. The depth will handle 2 standard or 1 double-wide module.

My second style only has 2 sets of slots to handle my taller corner modules. The width is also wider, and should just barely handle the new 14-3/8" square wide-track corners. The depth will accept 2 corners (a complete U-turn).

Critical Dimensions

The Depth of the containers must be enough to handle the modules it stores, plus an inch or two in front and back for foam padding. I've been using some handy strips of white crumbly-foam.

The Width of the containers must be enough to handle the front-to-back dimension of your modules, plus about 1/2" on each side for the 1/4" hardboard runners.

Note the doubled 3/4" strips at the bottom, which allows modules with bolts extended to slide in smoothly.

Don't forget to allow for the thickness of the plywood when planning your containers!

Construction

Measure and cut the panels for the sides of your containers. Lay them on your work surface, inside up. Carefully lay out the positions of the molding. The slots for the runners must be slightly wider than the hardboard so your modules will slide in easily! Note the extra strip of molding at the bottom. This allows for the adjustment bolts to slide into the case.

I used Gorilla glue to fasten the molding to the plywood. This required about 5 hands: I ran beads of glue under the molding, then flipped the panels over and tacked the plywood to the molding with a brad nailer. No, not like Norm uses; I loaded brads into my staple gun. This was a lot of fun-once flipped over, it took x-ray vision to see the alignment marks. My hands were coated with Gorilla glue for days!

If I build more containers I have an alternate construction idea-- Assemble the side panels on a piece of scrap plywood. Dribble the glue in the right places, align the molding, then tack nail from the top, thru the 3/16" plywood into the scrap plywood. Use long nails and don't pound them all the way in. You may also need to place weights on the molding to keep things in place; Gorilla glue expands a little as it cures-it's very much like Great Stuff insulating foam, but engineered for stickiness, not expansion. But you do need to clamp or tack nail things into place while it cures.

After the glue dries, remove the nails. The Gorilla Glue is more than strong enough to hold things together without the nails! Of course, I haven't tried this method, but it's got to be less effort than constantly flipping the panels over, hoping the molding stays in place until it can be nailed fast!

Once I had a collection of side panels, and the glue was dry, I cleaned up the excess glue with a screwdriver to make sure the slots were open for use as drawers. I then screwed cross braces to the top and bottom of the side panels. This created a framework that could be skinned flush with 3/16" plywood. See Diagram #3. I screwed through the good side of the side panels into the end of the cross braces. A little dab of glue might be used here, but I didn't. After the plywood skin was glued on, I removed the screws.

Diagram #3

Skinning the Box

Once you have the sides joined by the cross braces, you can glue on plywood to the top, bottom, and back. I cheated at this point- I made these panels oversized, glued them fast, then used a router to trim things to just the right size. If you are more patient with your woodworking than I am with mine, you can cut things a bit more precisely and do it right!

The Doors

The front panel is a piece of plywood (trimmed to size) with a rectangle of molding inside. The molding on the door is sized so the door is a snug fit just inside the molding on the rest of the container. To shut the door, I half-buried 2 tiny-headed screws in the bottom cross brace of the 'door' (heads extending outside of the brace), and drilled slightly oversized holes in the bottom molding of the container. This keeps the bottom edge of the door in place.

The top of the door is held closed with a screw through the top molding of the container into the top molding of the door. Slip the holes in the bottom rail of the door over the half-buried screws, then tilt the door closed. See Diagram #4

Diagram #4

The Rings of 1x2

My initial design relied solely on the strength of the plywood panels, rather than on heavyweight framing. Indeed, the back wall of the containers has no vertical framing, and the front corners only have molding strips so the door will fit smoothly. Because of the lack of framing, I was afraid that the plywood sidewalls would bulge out halfway down the container, and allow the modules to collapse on top of each other.

To prevent this calamity, I wrapped each container with 2 constricting bands-- 1"x2" lumber uprights and 3/4" square cross members. The cross members are screwed to the uprights at the corners. See Diagram #1 again. The 1"x2"s are used on edge to provide more leverage and straightening power to the design. Since 1"x2" lumber is usually not the best lumber in the yard, you'll have to pick and choose to get straight, un-knotted pieces.

Happiness

I'm generally happy with the way things worked out. I have 4 containers-- 2 for corners and 2 for straight modules. I have room to ship 8 corners, and 6 double or 12 straight modules. And they all fit in the truck! (: The only problem is that vibration during travel will usually vibrate several of the adjusting bolts loose, and they'll have to be reinserted. They all have hardboard fastened to their bottoms so they slide into the containers almost as fast as the layout comes apart.

At The Show

How To Barricade People Away From The Trains

The most common way to show your layout is to set up this marvelous thing, then string ropes around it to keep quick fingers and clutching hands from touching it. Although it's nice that people want to see the trains, finely detailed trains don't hold up under the 'attention.'

So I needed a way to keep people at arm's length from the trains. Not being one to (totally) abandon convention, I, too, have constructed a system of barricades.

There are 2 schools of thought-- "sneeze guard" Plexiglas shields, and "barrier rope." I chose the "barrier rope" route.

The concept is to place a rope barrier 2 foot or so in front of the layout. It doesn't obstruct the view (much), and keeps people back. Of course, the rope needs something to hold it off the ground.

BUILDING THE STANCHIONS

For each stanchion:

For each group of stanchions:

- Silicone bathtub sealer or caulk

- Spray-foam-in-a-can ("Great Stuff")

- Paint

For the construction phase:

- box of teensy screws (you'll screw them into the ends of the dowels)

- paint brush, cleaning supplies, etc.

- Plastic garbage bag

Slice the garbage bag open along the seams so you have a large sheet of plastic.

Lay it on the floor.

Line up the cement blocks on the plastic, holes facing up (and down).

Cut the plastic pipe into 8" lengths, the height of the blocks. If you've sliced your blocks into 8"x8"x4" size, cut the pipe into 4" lengths.

Drop one piece of pipe into the hole in each block.

While holding the pipe upright in the center of the hole, squirt expando-foam into each block cavity until it's no more than 2/3 full. This stuff expands, so if it looks like it's too little, it's probably OK. You may have to add a dollop after it's had a chance to 'grow.' Let the foam cure overnight.

While you're waiting, paint the dowels. Screw the teensy screws into one or both ends of the dowels. You can now either use string and hang them from the rafters, or prop each end on the edge of something. Paint them. Hanging or propping them makes it easier to get a smooth coat of paint. I chose yellow for the dowels in the hopes that they'll be more visible.

Once the foam has cured (and don't get anxious-- the stuff cures on the outside first; the inside takes longer to dry), use an old saw and saw the foam flush with the top of the blocks.

Use a long screwdriver, coathanger, or other long pokey thing and clear any excess foam from the inside of the pipes. Once I had most of the foam cleared, I rammed a dowel down the pipe until it moved freely.

Notice how the end of the block that was 'down' has a 'skin' on it, unlike the rough surface where the foam was sliced off. I used the smooth end as the 'up' end for my blocks.

Paint the blocks. I used maroon with a diagonal yellow stripe. Can you say "Erie Lackawanna," boys and girls? I thought the stripe would make the blocks less 'trip prone.'

Once the paint's dry, turn the blocks bottom up and place 3 dabs of silicone caulk on 2 adjacent corners and in the middle of the opposite side to make non-skid and non-scratch 'feet.'

Slide a crutch tip or furniture foot onto one end of each dowel.

USING THE STANCHIONS

You'll need:

The Stanchions (don't forget to bring the dowels!)

Police Line or Survey Marker tape (long roll of plastic ribbon)

Extra-large paper clamps (2 per stanchion)

Lug the blocks to the site. [this part alone says a lot for the advantage of the 'sneeze guard' method of protection] Place them where they'll do the most good. Insert the dowels. Clamp the plastic ribbon to the first stanchion. Festoon the ribbon from upright to upright, clamping as you go.

Using these barriers with TTrak, where the train is on a standard banquet table, I discovered that the table is just at kid's height. Placing the ribbon at the top of the stanchion made it very easy for a youngster to duck (or just walk) under the 'barrier.' I suggest running 2 strips of barrier so you block the adults and the kids!

After the event it's your call if you want to roll up the ribbon, or just toss it. I've been using surveyor's marker tape, which is only about 1" wide, and is a royal pain to rewind. I've been tossing it. "Police Line Do Not Cross" ribbon is wider, and may be easier to roll back up.

Save the clamps!

I've been transporting the dowels in one of those overnight delivery triangular document 'tubes.' They stick out the end, but at least they're together.

I'm thinking seriously about 'sneeze guards,' mainly because of the weight of the cement blocks.

The Next Generation of Railroaders

There are many reasons to bring a layout to a show: There's finally enough space to set up all of the modules; you can show off your modeling skills; you can push the hobby. Of these, I think we forget about the 3rd reason.

I've seen some chatter on The Internet about the 'graying' of the hobby-- how there aren't any youngsters around. But we don't do anything to encourage them.

At a recent show I brought along Thomas-the-Tank-Engine (and Annie and Clarabelle). When they were chugging along, I had kids (and at least one mother) so excited I was afraid they'd have an accident! Now, you can argue that Thomas is not prototypical, and 'things like that don't belong on a railroad,' but you can't deny that he's a crowd pleaser-- and that's the whole idea. Make it FUN! You can count rivets once you get back home. And maybe, just maybe, some of those kids will be excited enough to actually join the hobby.

At the end of the same show, someone mentioned that he was surprised we didn't have a signup sheet. Doh! We pushed the handouts, but how much better would it be to send a newsletter, or invitiation to join, or something a few months before the next show. Many people just want that little -push- to get involved. I know it works-- I had the business card from one individual, and emailed him before this show. And he built and brought 6' of T-Trak modules!

Please Touch

I have a T-Trak layout. It's designed to be placed on a standard banquet table. This puts a T-Trak layout right at a kid's eye-- and hand-- level.

Kids love trains. They love to touch them. Most layouts require a cop to keep hands off of the trains. Most of the kids are well behaved, and the parents are in good control.

Sometimes it's the 'big kids' (the ones in the 20 and up age group) who are more trouble than the little ones!

I think it's better to divert the hands to something they -are- allowed to touch.

For my T-Trak layout I built 2 pedestals with pushbuttons on top. One blows a 'steam whistle,' the other a 'diesel horn.' Some people say the diesel sounds more like an Edsel, but... I digress. The pedestals are placed outside the crowd control boundary, one at either end of the layout.

Kids react a lot better if you tell them "you can't touch the trains, but you can go over there and push that button." I've had kids grinning and running back and forth between the buttons once they figure out what they do. And I've had parents stop back because a kid wanted to push the buttons one more time before they leave.

I sometimes have to put 'please push' signs next to the buttons, because parents keep stopping the little fingers before they can push the buttons! Now adults ask, "What does it do?" I tell them to try it and find out.

Another enhancement will be to move the throttle to my pedestals, and let the crowd control the speed of the trains (with the Ultimate High Speed Limit set by me). Have some simple tasks for the 'engineer' to accomplish-- spot the steam engine under the water tower, stop the passenger train at the station, etc.

My next thought is that people want to touch stuff to find out what it's made of, how much it weighs, and what the texture's like. So I think yet another campaign may be to encourage all layouts to include a Please Touch section-- perhaps a module-under-construction where you could tolerate a little rework. But let the people feel a sample of the foamboard; pick up and heft the end to get an idea of the weight. Maybe have a plank that goes from naked board at one end to fully landscaped at the other. All available for touching. How -does- that grass feel? Is that pile of 'loose rock' really all glued together?

And more pushbuttons. Add some automation, with buttons that people can feel free to push!

Photo Gallery

"Official" T-Trak Web Site

Unofficial TTrak Handbook

T-Trak Network (Japan)

T-Trak Network Standards (Japan)

The Kawagoe Railway

The Kawagoe Railway + Standards

TTrak User Group in N on Yahoo

TTrak User Group in Z on Yahoo

National Model Railroad Association

Long Island NTrak

Naked Bridges as Modules

Chantilly Lace

Shots from the 'Big Layout' at the Capitol Limited N-Scale East Convention, Chantilly Va. August 7th, 2004

Micro Layouts

Not TTrak, but lots of TINY ideas!

Gateway NTrak / St. Louis TTrak / Dave Halloran's Photos

World's Greatest Hobby

Japan Association of Model Railroaders

Reading Area TTrak

Baltimore Area N-Trak DCC Switch Panel

Rail Cams

Prototype Trains

Chattanooga Model RR Club

NV Ntrak - T-TRAK Division

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Anthracite RR Historical Society

Erie Lackawanna Historical Society

Erie Lackawanna Dining Car Preservation Society

RR Heritage Corporation - Altoona

Erie-Lackawanna Fallen Flags

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Cass Scenic Railroad

Kruger Street Toy Train Museum

Lackawanna County Coal Mine Museum

Lackawanna County Trolley Museum

Marx Toy Museum

No.9 Coal Mine & Museum

O Winston Link

Pioneer Tunnel

Roadside America

RR Museum of PA

Steamtown USA

Strasburg RR

W, K, & S Railroad

Tennessee Valley RailRoad

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NMRA Cincinnati Division 7

Queen City N-Gineers

Tri-State N-Trak

Cincinnati Railroad Club

"Tower 'A'"

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Johnny's Toys

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DCC Wikipedia

JMRI - Java Model Railroad Interface

DCC Computer Control

T-Trak Interface Guidelines

Alternate Rules for T-Trak Modules

Give 'em a Yard

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